Iza Bryniarska was in town last week and got all nostalgic on us. Toronto misses her too.
The 12 Things I Love and Have Loved About Toronto
(In No Particular Order)
By Iza Bryniarska
1. St. Lawrence Market
The stalls in Toronto’s oldest market offer a dizzying array of international specialties and local products. I love the whole experience – starting conversations with the shopkeepers, getting recommendations when you become a “regular,” and having access to products which most supermarkets, no matter how “posh,” don’t stock – probably don’t even know about. When my “gourmand” partner found his favourite French olive oil at Scheffler’s, I heard him yell gleefully across the whole stand: “where did they find this stuff? This is even hard to find in Nice!” If you have a few moments, take the time to really look inside the many stalls – despite the modern-day trend to package “everything under one roof” as “convenience,” the time which it takes to navigate your huge cart through a gargantuan, impersonal supermarket is roughly equivalent to the time spent trying delicious foods, sipping good, non-chain coffee (also see item 10), and chatting with people who are eager to share their passion for food with you – and you’ll be much happier as a result. Try Kozlik’s Mustard (if you go on a Saturday, you can try it on grilled back bacon), Domenic’s selection of salmon, coffee at Everyday Gourmet (lattes and cappuccinos are $1 on Wednesdays and if you bring your own cup, they’ll fill it no matter how big it is), gorgeous organic produce from one of the two organic grocers (Saturdays during the summer, check out the North farmers’ market for an even bigger selection), and an amazing assortment of bulk foods, spices, and other groceries in the bulk grocery store tucked into the south-east corner of the Market’s lower level. Remember, asking for cheese or meat samples is OK!
2. Theatre Passe Muraille
A university drama professor made it a requirement to attend performances of the plays which we were studying, and a passion for theatre was born. TPM showcases local and international talent in a laid-back, comfortable space with one huge bonus – during regular performances, you can order drinks and enjoy the play from the upstairs bar. In an era of nearly absurd alcohol restrictions (on some Toronto bar patios, you have to ask the bar staff to carry your drink for you as “the sidewalk is not licensed”) it’s nice that TPM remembers that “the senses clear with wine.”
3. Falafel Queen
At a certain point in my life, I ate a lot of falafels and other sandwiches with my friend Michelle after nights of dancing at the Velvet (see Item 8). I returned last year and ordered a falafel, tickled that the owner remembered us after a two-year absence. This was a sober dinner-time order, not an after-bar craving, but the falafel was just as good. Also just as good was the parade of characters who stroll by as you enjoy your cheap-and-delicious food at one of Falafel Queen’s few shabby little tables.
4. Asteria Greek Restaurant
A few years ago, I was getting a haircut on the Danforth while the same Michelle waited for me and asked the stylist which of the neighbourhood’s many Greek restaurants he would recommend. He asked, “do you want fancy, or cheap-and-cheerful?” We went with the latter option and I have gone back many times to find the same family-run, no-frills restaurant with a really nice back patio in the summer. Though Asteria doesn’t provide the same people-watching opportunities as many of the Danforth’s restaurants which have sidewalk patios, I prefer enjoying the simple, delicious food and $20 bottles of Greek wine in a peaceful setting. If you’re really, really hungry, order the Saganaki, which they’ll bring on a flaming platter, or the home-made baklava for dessert – otherwise the meals are more than sufficient.
5. Miyaki Sushi
I have already sort-of-reviewed Miyaki, but it deserves a mention. My hands-down-favourite place for inexpensive, quality sushi. For more about Miyaki, read here.
6. Soma
Yes, I have issues with the Distillery’s “manufactured artsyness,” though the optimist in me thinks that any artsyness has to be good. Those issues disappear (due to sugar high) when I enter Soma, where all of the seasons are covered – in summer, their gelato is to-die-for while winter’s spicy Mayan hot chocolate (go for the espresso-type shot if you dare – you’ll never go back to regular hot chocolate) is the best I’ve had. The year-round selection of hand-made and imported fair-trade chocolates is great for gifts or indulging yourself. If the Distillery would cancel some of the hideous condo developments and install an ice rink/fountain pool where one could enjoy Soma’s goodies, this would be bliss.
7. The Cameron House
A great place to meet friends for drinks and conversation, this Queen West watering hole has long provided a stage for up-and-coming local musicians and playwrights. The theory that “if you have friends who will buy drinks, we’ll provide the stage and the bartender” is a sound one – what better way to support the community? As the sign over the bar proclaims, “THIS IS PARADISE” indeed.
8. The Velvet Underground
Queen West has undergone a visible shift in the last several years, but the Velvet remains cover-charge-less and relatively down-to-earth. At a certain point in my life (also see items 3 and 7), I spent weekends dancing in this place, where I was told a few times that my friend and I “didn’t look like Velvet types.” In another establishment I may have felt unwelcome, but we’re talking about the Velvet, where a rubber bondage outfit and a fluffy pink bunny costume (worn by a guy over 2 metres tall) were and are equally welcome. On weekends, which are considered to be more “mainstream” (and during which you’re less likely to see the afore-mentioned costumes), the array of characters is still diverse enough to make everyone feel at home. The people-watching and people-meeting opportunities are many, and the place remains hilariously gruff at times – I once tried to order a vodka-and-pineapple juice, and was reprimanded with “this isn’t fucking Yorkville.” Fucking right!
9. Gaston, the French Bulldog
On a little street which intersects King East is a ground-level lawyer’s office which is the daytime home of the cutest freaking dog I have ever seen. Sounds weird, huh? You really have to see him – he has his own little bed on the office’s window sill where he basks in the afternoon sunshine and entertains his many fans. He gets so many visitors that they have to close the blinds when the place is really busy, Gaston’s proud owner tells me. To answer preliminary questions about Gaston’s heritage, the owners have placed a tag in the window which says “Gaston, the French Bulldog.” Visit Gaston any time during office hours, Monday to Friday, or by special appointment.
10. i deal coffee in Kensington Market
I’m inhaling the scintillating aroma of my “Around the World” coffee beans, one of the coffee shop’s imaginative blends (roasted on the premises), as I quote from the package label: “we at i deal coffee are committed to supporting local economies, promoting sustainable agricultural, environmental and business practices as well as providing a damn good cup of coffee.” Other things I love about this place: the shabby interior, the mismatched coffee cups, the customers outside who look as if they have been there for so long that they’ve become part of the permanent landscape, the free cup of coffee which comes with every one-pound bag of coffee beans, and the magnet on the fridge which says “My Sexual Preference is Often.”
11. The Canary Restaurant
My friend Ruth showed me this abandoned building during my last visit to Toronto, proving that a familiar place can still be (re)discovered. Located east of the Distillery at the intersection of two tiny streets, the once-busy diner looks as if one day all of the staff and customers just up and left, never to return. Because of its surroundings – the barely-used intersection, the overgrown, outdated advertisements on the wall, the old abandoned van across the street its nose buried in a tangle of weeds - the building produces a feeling of having stepped back in time. And it’s nice.
12. Cherry Beach
When my partner found out that after 8 years in Toronto I had never been to Cherry Beach, he concluded that I didn’t really know Toronto. I corrected him – I know certain aspects of Toronto (the above list is perhaps a good example), and the colour green doesn’t usually come into play. I arrived at Cherry Beach for the first time in 2006 and was shocked to find a place in the city which makes you feel like you’ve left. Since my introduction to Cherry Beach, there has been a great reduction in the number of trees and amount of green space (sign the petition), but it’s still lovely. The pessimist in me cautions: enjoy it while you can.
